The calm before the storm

It feels like the calm before the storm at the moment. We’re waiting at IPBC, bags packed, tents down, and the team is filling in time before we set off on the walk to High Camp.

One of the strangest things about this trip is the time spent waiting. Even disregarding the first few weather-affected days in Kathmandu, we’ve still spent the majority of the time sitting in lodges and tents waiting while our bodies acclimatise. Sometimes this time can be spent usefully preparing kit for the next day or rearranging bags for High Camp, but a lot of time is spent chatting, reading and playing games to wile away the time.

Last night was probably the coldest night we’ve had so far, and there was loads of ice inside the tent this morning. I woke up with a bad headache during the night, then again later due to the cold, being uncomfortable, needing the pee-bottle, etc. Once again I’ve been wondering what’s wrong with us that we pay for these experiences…

My spirits were lifted when the sun came up though. I’m still amazed by the temperature change when the sun appears over the mountains – from lying in a freezing tent with ice flakes dropping on you every time you knock the sides, you suddenly find yourself in a rapidly warming tent with melting ice dripping all over the sleeping bags. Luckily the sun has since dried out the sleeping bags and has also managed to melt the washing I did yesterday, though it hasn’t quite dried yet.

The view from here is incredible. In the foreground is Island Peak, looking pretty daunting 1,200m above us. It’s completely dwarfed, however,  by Lhotse, which rises over 3,500m from where we are, to 8,501m We’re looking at the south face, which is one of the biggest cliff faces in the world. Earlier we were wondering if anyone had ever climbed it, and it turns out Tam Ding lead a Japanese team up it a few years ago! Our Sherpas are truly amazing.